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All of my cabinets are hand-crafted by myself and build to fit your space. Stock (store purchased) cabinets only come in standard sizes so filler boards must be used to make up any difference in measurements. The results are far from a custom-built look. Stock cabinets, and even most custom-built shops, use 1/2" sides and 1/4" backs. I tend to over-build my cabinets a bit using all 3/4" construction for sides, bottom, and back. There is no particle board or flake board in my cabinet construction. All of my cabinets are built with 3/4" A1 grade plywood. This prevents any sagging of cabinets even under extreme loads, and assure a long lasting cabinet without issues.
HardwareI also use top quality hardware for my drawer guides, hinges, and specialty hardware as seen in the photos above and noted on my resources page. This is an area where most cabinet makers cut costs. I use full extension ball bearing drawer guides which are actually made for file drawers. These guides (shown in the photo above) have a 100lb capacity and extend the drawer completely out of the cabinet allowing full access to the drawer unit. Most cabinets you find in a home store and most custom shops use a single roller guides. This is a guide with one nylon roller and falls of or wears out often within 2 years (photo below). My hinges are concealed hinges and fully adjustable. When the cabinet door is closed the hinges are not visible which makes for a cleaner look. These are Salice 35mm cup hinges with removable plates so the door can be removed with just a push of a button and have a wide range of adjustable capability. Tilt trays are a standard feature on my sink base cabinets which give you a nice storage area that's otherwise wasted. All shelves are 3/4" material and fully adjustable. I use solid metal shelf pins that are zinc coated. These pins are very strong and a nice upgrade from other builder's plastics pins.
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All cabinets are finished with a 4 step polyurethane process. This is the same product that is used on hardwood floors and is very durable. I use a variety of staining products and often tilt finishes to get the desired color. I also have the capability to match existing cabinets if necessary.
I try to provide all the services needed to complete a renovation to ensure the quality of work is consistent. I also provide service for installation of all appliances such as micro/hoods, refrigerator water lines, stove gas lines, disposal, and minor electrical changes.
customer responsibility There are some items that I ask the customer to purchase for a project. For a kitchen project I ask the homeowner to purchase any pulls or knobs for the doors since there are so many choices and prices ranges. If a stainless steel sink is to be used, I ask the homeowner to purchase that for the same reasons. I do provide solid surface sinks and work with you to select the appropriate size and color.
I encourage customers to shop around and compare costs to my quote. I have yet to lose a project to a home store or custom cabinet shop once the customer as become knowledgeable on quality and market price. Bottom line is my cabinets are superior quality and cost much less. I've been in this trade 31 years and know what's being built and sold out there. Unfortunately, everything found in a home stores or large scale cabinet manufacture is cheaply made in both construction and hardware. My estimates are consistently less than even the stock cabinet prices. When comparing quality look at the cabinet construction thickness, drawer guides, drawer construction, and hinges. I've been told on several occasions that my cost was 25% - 40% less than any other quote and my cost included installation, appliance hook up, electrical changes, and plumbing.